Brakes - Split brake systems and adjustable bias valves
You can only use the MS72 adjustable brake regulator/bias valve with a front/rear split system. Definitely NOT the diagonal split type (for identification see 'Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment'). These should have been 'X-ed' at birth. Makes the car handle very interestingly when the system only operates the diagonally opposed brakes. Scary stuff.
Almost as much fun as when the rears only work on a front/rear split set-up - particularly as the PDWA is built into the master cylinder, and it still has to go through the FAM7821 pressure regulator valve! Damn near no braking on the rear. Either way - split system brakes are grossly inefficient when only using half the system as they are designed to do when a failure in the other half occurs. Quite frightening. To install the MS72 into a front/rear split system, it needs fitting into the rear feed line. Determining which this is can prove difficult if the system has already been tampered with or new replacement components fitted. Nam
Brakes - Fundamental Considerations
When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to
considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes
tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more
important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the
twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You
will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden
over-coat.
Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board.
The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b
Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment
When altering the front brake set-up away from the standard installation, it invariably alters the amount of rear brake bias needed to re-balance the cars brake balance.
The problems start occurring when folk graft alternative brake set-ups onto the front of their Minis. Be this 7.5" discs onto a previously drum-braked model, or going from current standard disc set-ups to one of the 4-pot varieties. The question then is 'what bore size rear wheel-cylinders do I need?' Unfortunately this isn't straightforward. Actually, that's not strictly true - more on this later. The pressure developed in the lines determines brake effectiveness - aside from disc size, pad type, co-efficient of friction, etc. that is. Understanding this may assist in choosing which way you should go for your particular set-up.
The basic facts you need to remember when dealing with brake pressures is how they are affected by the components you use.
Engine - 998 tuning, further options
Following on from the easily bolted on performance enhancing components out-lined in the stage one section, we need to consider where to go to get more power output.
Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio
To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money. Power production of any engine, once the 'breathing apparatus' (induction/exhaust system) has been dealt with to cause no restriction ...
Engine - 1275, 95bhp sports/tourer test result
DIY enthusiasts often believe that building an engine to give excellent all-round road performance is beyond them. Mainly from comparisons made between what they have been able to achieve and what specialists say should be achievable from any particular type of engine build.
Generally scrambled further by the non-perfect match of parts and components used between aforementioned specialist and erstwhile DIY-er, and the ritual 'nose-tapping and knowing winks' display of those specialists. Something you can very nearly 'see' even when talking to such folk on the phone - or that inimitable 'ah, yes, well…' So some form of 'black art' is implied. Whilst there is most definitely a degree of 'feel' involved between the real specialist's results and those of just a good engineer - the bones of the deal is subject to no such thing and is certainly within the capability of the DIY enthusiast given the necessary information. And that has been the problem.
Bill Sollis - Thruxton race report.
Our Brands Hatch successes were followed by a five week break and with holidays to take what better way to enjoy the first two wins of the season.
Thruxton loomed up and the sense of expectation is never greater than when contemplating the mega fast Hampshire circuit. Preparations went beyond the usual full spanner check. We have acquired a cylinder leakage....
SU Carbs - Poor idle quality
Something that crops up when any modifications are made to an engine - mainly in the form of improving induction and exhaust capability - is that of idle quality.
After applying aforementioned freer-breathing products to enhance power output, many complain that no matter what - including post rolling-road tuning - they can not get a satisfactory, steady idle setting. And this after checking for manifold/gasket air leaks and spindle to carb body play (usual suspect as the spindle wears quite dramatically over several thousand miles). There is one thing that is often over-looked - the air valve found on many later model cars. This sprung-loaded air valve is built into the butterfly, sometimes called a 'poppet' valve or anti-dive valve. It is primarily there to reduce emissions when the engine is on the over-run - closed throttle at speed, i.e. anything other than at idle and gearbox in neutral.
Suspension - Dampers, basic knowledge
The damper's job is very simple to explain - to keep the tyre in contact with the ground wherever and whenever possible...
C-AEG420 Light steel flywheel (pre-engaged starter type) Fitting instructions
This flywheel is not balanced so should be before use, along with the prospective clutch assembly.
Before fitting the Mini Spares light steel flywheel, carefully examine the crankshaft taper for any burrs or other protrusions caused by fret-welding of previous flywheels. All protrusions of any sort must be removed as they will cause incorrect seating of the flywheel which could, in turn, cause this fret-welding to occur and permanently damage both crankshaft and flywheel. A recognised method of ensuring correct fit is to use fine valve lapping paste to lap the flywheel on to the taper.
A good, correct fit will be confirmed by seeing an even grey finish over the whole of the taper on both components. The paste should then be thoroughly washed off using a strong cleaning solvent (such as cellulose thinners or brake cleaner).
C-AEG421 Light steel flywheel (inertia starter type) fitting instructions 
This flywheel is not balanced so should be before use, along with the prospective clutch assembly.
Before fitting the Mini Spares light steel flywheel, care
C-AEG619 Uiltra-light steel flywheel (inertia starter type) fitting instructions
This flywheel is not balanced so should be before use, along with the prospective clutch assembly.
Before fitting the Mini Spares Ultra-light steel flywheel, carefully examine the crankshaft taper for any burrs or other protrusions caused by fret-welding of previous flywheels.
C-AEG620 Ultra-light steel flywheel (pre-engaged starter type)Fitting instructio...
This flywheel is not balanced so should be before use, along with the prospective clutch assembly.
Before fitting the Mini Spares Ultra-light steel flywheel, carefully examine the crankshaft taper for any burrs or other protrusions caused by fret-welding of previous flywheels. All protrusions of any sort must be removed as they will cause incorrect seating of the flywheel which could, in turn, cause this fret-welding to occur and permanently damage both crankshaft and flywheel. A recognised method of ensuring correct fit is to use fine valve lapping paste to lap the flywheel on to the taper.
A good, correct fit will be confirmed by seeing an even grey finish over the whole of the taper on both components. The paste should then be thoroughly washed off using a strong cleaning solvent (such as cellulose thinners or brake cleaner).
C-AJJ4029 Vented disc/Caliper conversion kit
For use when converting cars which already have hubs fitted that hold calipers except 997/998 Cooper which will also require larger Constant velocity joints and Timken bearings, If you have brake shoe front drum brakes a kit C-AJJ4029A is available which contains all parts required..
The contents of this kit ...
MINISPARES HISTORIC RALLY TEAM - 2005 SEASON - PART2
Conister Trust Historic Manx Rally - 28th to 30th July 2005
As this would be our first visit to the island, Anthony and I decided to take advantage of the two pre-event recce days on the preceding weekend, flying out from Birmingham and doing the Stage recce in a hired 1.4 Seat Leon
The weather was sunny and dry on the Saturday and Sunday and over a busy two days...
Fitting instructions for Remote Vacuum Servo Units Types 6 and 7
General fitting instructions
To ensure correct installation of the AP Braking remote vacuum servo unit, thoroughly read and adhere to the fitting instructions prior to carrying out any work on the vehicle. Introduction The vacuum servo unit is incorporated into the hydraulic braking system, remote from the master cylinder, as an intermediate stage operating between the master cylinder and the brake assemblies. The two main parts of the servo unit consist of the vacuum servo mechanism and the hydraulic slave cylinder assembly.
These component parts are bolted together so that the slave cylinder piston is in line with, and is operated by, the servo push rod. A plastic no-return valve is fitted into the vacuum shell and an integral air cleaner is incorporated to prevent foreign matter entering the air control valve chamber. The servo unit is designed to give no assistance with very light brake application. In the absence of servo assistance due to loss of vacuum, an unres...
14.07.07 – Croft Report by Keith Calver
Whisking the head off again after removal at Silverstone to found out what the problem was 9obviously bent exhaust valve) I was praying that it had not trashed the head. I couldn't face having to do another race head so soon. Fortunately it had just dinged the edge of the seat in the head slightly – so a new valve, guide re-ream, and seat 'trim' got thing sorted.
With all the bits re-applied I took the car back down to genial Pete at Alwyn Kershaw's....
02.09.07 - Donington Park Report by Keith Calver
Once again I found myself swamped with work causing the now familiar last minute rush to check the race car over before departing to Donnington. This race weekend was going to be a very different affair than what has become the norm. Karin was having to work the weekend, my 'opposition' in my class and in another Clubby - Steve (Young) - has resigned himself to doing the last race of the year at Oulton park due to work pressures, and stats man and hospitality provider Keith (Manning – now Otto v
05.06.10, Brands Hatch race report by Keith Calver
I am not sure why, but I don't really enjoy Brands Hatch. It is a quite technically difficult circuit to set fast lap times on. It is most definitely one of those circuits that 'be slow to go fast' applies to.
You can not hustle or hurry it. I am speaking from the point of view of having to use treaded tyres that don't give a tremendous amount of grip. And probably a circuit where 'loose is fast' applies... but I am still building confidence.
03.04.10, Cadwell Park Race Report by Keith Calver
Getting the car ready for the first race was not quite the last minute flurry of panicked activity it usually is. Largely because the re-fit and re-furb were kept to a minimum following complete strip re-build plans shot to pieces by tradesmen being somewhat hard to pin down to get very necessary domestic work done.
Most importantly the doors and windows in the garage. The special concertina type front doors have been falling slowly decaying over the past few years....
Me & My Moke
About six years ago I bought a small bungalow in the province of Catalunya Spain close to the French border. After a year or so my next door neighbour told me that in his garage was a Californian Mini Moke that he had owned since 1982.
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